Why You Should Actually Care About These Two Towns
Look, Tongyeong and Mokpo are the two best coastal towns for a quick escape from Seoul if you actually want to eat good seafood and not deal with Busan’s tourist crowds. I’ve been to both multiple times over the past four years, and they’re genuinely different experiences. Tongyeong is smaller, quieter, and feels like what a real fishing town is supposed to be — you’ll actually see boats working. Mokpo is busier, has better island-hopping infrastructure, and the seafood market is legitimately one of the best in the country. Neither is going to blow your mind if you’re expecting dramatic cliffs or white sand beaches, but if you want fresh raw fish for 8,000 KRW and an actual local vibe, both are worth 2 days of your time.
Getting There: The Actual Logistics
To Tongyeong
Take the KTX from Seoul Station directly to Tongyeong. It’s 3 hours 50 minutes, costs 54,000 KRW one way, and there are about 10 departures daily. You’ll arrive at Tongyeong Station, which is actually in the city center, not 30 minutes away like in other towns. From there, grab a taxi (7,000 KRW) or a local bus to your accommodation. Most hotels are within walking distance or a short ride. The thing most guides get wrong: they say Tongyeong Station is inconvenient. It’s not. It’s honestly better positioned than Busan’s main station.
To Mokpo
This one’s trickier. There’s no direct KTX from Seoul, so you’ll either take an express bus (Gwangju Bus Terminal to Mokpo, 4.5 hours, 32,000 KRW) or fly to Gwangju on Korean Air and catch a 1-hour bus from there (around 120,000 KRW total for flight). I’d recommend the bus unless you’re short on time — the extra 30 minutes beats dealing with airports. You arrive at Mokpo Express Bus Terminal, which is about 2km from the waterfront. Take a taxi (6,000 KRW) or local bus 1, 2, or 20 to reach the harbor.
What to Do and See
Tongyeong Specifics
The main draw is Tongyeong Harbor itself. Walk along the promenade early morning around 6 AM if you want to see actual fishing boats unloading catches. By 10 AM it’s mostly tourists taking photos. The Admiral Yi Sun-sin Park is free and overlooks the water — it’s genuinely nice for 30 minutes of walking, though the statue itself is underwhelming (entry free, open until sunset). Skip the Naval Academy Museum unless you’re deeply into Korean military history; I went once and walked out after 20 minutes. Entry is 3,000 KRW but it’s not worth the time.
The real activity here is island hopping. Ferries leave from Tongyeong Harbor to Bijindo, Hansando, and several other islands. A round-trip ticket to Bijindo costs 18,000 KRW, takes 40 minutes, and the island has a quiet beach and small hiking trails. Go on a weekday if possible — weekends get crowded with Seoul day-trippers. The ferry schedule is inconsistent, so ask at your hotel the night before. I showed up once expecting a 2 PM ferry and the last one left at 1:15 PM.
Mokpo Specifics
Mokpo’s strength is its island infrastructure. There are ferries to over 20 islands from the main terminal. Hongdo (Red Island) is the most visited — it’s a 50-minute ferry (40,000 KRW round-trip), has dramatic red cliffs, and decent hiking. Go early; boats fill up by 9:30 AM. I went at 11 AM once and barely made it on the last departure. Dadohae Haesang National Park boats also leave from here; they’re cheaper (20,000 KRW) and less touristy if you want a quieter experience.
The Mokpo Modern History Museum is worth an hour if you’re interested in colonial-era Korean history. Entry is 3,000 KRW, open 9 AM to 6 PM (closed Mondays). The building itself is more interesting than most of the exhibits, honestly. The Marine Cable Car (3,000 KRW, 10 minutes) goes from the harbor over to Yudal Mountain and offers okay views, but I’d skip it unless you have extra time. It’s not bad, just not essential.
The actual gem is Yudalsan Park at sunset. Free entry, paved walking trails, and you get views of the entire harbor. The climb takes 40 minutes and it’s popular with locals, not tourists.
Where to Eat and Practical Tips
Tongyeong Food
Go to the Chungjangro Fish Market (open 6 AM to 8 PM). Pick your own raw fish or octopus, pay the vendor, then sit at any of the small restaurants around the market and they’ll grill it for you. A massive plate of grilled fish for two people costs 25,000-35,000 KRW. This is the real deal. I’ve taken visiting friends here and nobody’s disappointed. Avoid the restaurants facing the main street — go deeper into the market where locals actually eat.
For something less intense, try the udong (thick noodles) places near the station. Tongyeong udong is a local specialty and runs 7,000-9,000 KRW for a bowl. It’s comfort food and legitimately good.
Mokpo Food
The Mokpo Seafood Market is bigger and more overwhelming than Tongyeong’s. If you’re not comfortable navigating it solo, book a small group tour through your guesthouse; they usually arrange it for 50,000 KRW per person including a meal. Or just stick to the restaurants lining the street outside — they’re actually quite good. Grilled monkfish (아귀) is a local specialty, around 30,000 KRW for two people. It’s richer than most seafood and absolutely worth trying once.
Practical tip locals know: eat lunch around 11:30 AM or dinner after 7 PM. The in-between hours are dead because Koreans eat at specific times. You’ll have better service and faster seating.
Honest Take: Which One Should You Actually Pick?
Go to Tongyeong if you want quieter, simpler, and closer to Seoul (KTX is really convenient). It’s better for a first-time coastal visit. Go to Mokpo if you’re interested in serious island hopping — the infrastructure is genuinely better and there’s more to do beyond eating seafood. Visit during spring (April-May) or early fall (September-October); summers are humid and winters are gray. Both towns are underwhelming in December through February. One thing I wish I’d known: bring comfortable walking shoes and waterproof bag for ferries. The boat rides get splashy and trails are often uneven. Also, make ferry reservations through your hotel if possible — it saves the hassle of showing up early and competing for spots with tour groups. Neither town needs more than 2 days, and honestly, visiting both in one trip isn’t worth the travel time. Pick one and actually experience it instead of rushing between them.