Opening
I’ve been to both of these markets at least a dozen times each over the past four years, and I’ll be honest — they’re not the same experience. Gwangjang is the tourist version of a Korean market. Tongin is what Gwangjang was probably like thirty years ago. If you want Instagram photos and tteokbokki samples, Gwangjang delivers. If you actually want to see how regular Seoulites shop for food and eat lunch, Tongin is your place. Both are worth visiting, but for completely different reasons.
Getting There
Gwangjang Market
Take Line 1 to Jongno 5-ga Station, exit 8. Walk about 3 minutes. The walk itself is easy — straight shot, can’t miss it. Entry is free. Total time from central Seoul (say, Gangnam Station) is roughly 25-30 minutes depending on time of day.
The one thing guides don’t mention: parking here is a nightmare if you’re driving. There’s a small underground lot, but it fills up by 10:30 AM. I made that mistake once. Never again.
Tongin Market
Line 3 to Dongguk University Station, exit 5 or 6. Then either walk 8-10 minutes uphill, or take Bus 1020 for one stop (1,250 KRW). The bus drops you almost at the entrance. Walking is fine if you’re not carrying much, but the uphill part catches people off guard. Entry is free.
Travel time from downtown Seoul is about 20-25 minutes, which actually makes it closer than Gwangjang. Most tourist guides don’t even mention it exists, so fewer people know how to get there.
What to Do / See
Gwangjang Market: The Reality
This place has been around since 1905. That’s real history. But here’s what changed: in the past decade, it’s become a tourist attraction first and a functioning market second. You’ll see the whole thing in 45 minutes to 1 hour if you’re just browsing. On weekends, it’s packed shoulder-to-shoulder with tour groups and young Korean couples. Go on a Tuesday or Wednesday morning if you want to actually move.
The main drag has maybe 200 vendors, mostly textiles, fabrics, and cheap clothing. If you’re not into fabrics, skip that section entirely. The food area is smaller than people think — about 50-60 stalls that serve food, clustered in the back and side streets. Prices here are marked up compared to what locals pay. A gimbap that might cost 3,000 KRW elsewhere goes for 4,000-5,000 KRW here.
Everyone goes for the raw fish wrapped in perilla leaves. It’s good. Definitely try it. A plate costs 6,000-8,000 KRW. But honestly? I’ve been disappointed by the quality inconsistency. One day it’s fresh and excellent. Another day it’s been sitting out too long. You’re gambling a bit.
The tteokbokki samples are free to “taste,” and vendors are aggressive about getting you to buy full portions. Crowd level peaks between 11 AM and 2 PM on weekends, and 12-1 PM on weekdays. Go at 9 AM or after 4 PM if you want breathing room.
Opening hours are roughly 10 AM to 8 PM, but many stalls close by 6-7 PM. Sunday hours are shorter.
Tongin Market: The Real Thing
This market is about 10,000 square meters — smaller and way less touristy than Gwangjang. It’s still very much a neighborhood market where actual people buy groceries. You’ll see ajummas selecting vegetables, vendors arguing about prices, the whole authentic ecosystem.
There’s a famous “food court” section in the middle with about 30-40 stalls. Unlike Gwangjang, these aren’t set up for tourists. They’re there to feed office workers and regular shoppers. The prices reflect that: bibimbap for 5,000 KRW, kalguksu for 6,500 KRW. You sit on low plastic stools at communal tables. Zero English menus. It’s chaotic and wonderful.
They have a system called “dosirak” (도시락 rental) that I love. You pay 5,000 KRW for a wooden lunch box, then fill it with whatever you want from vendor stalls — seasoned fish, vegetables, pickles, everything. You eat at their tables and return the box. It’s genuinely one of my favorite Seoul experiences, and I’ve brought visitors here who get it more than they “got” Gwangjang.
Opening hours are 9 AM to 7 PM most days, closed some Sundays. Monday-Friday mornings (before 10 AM) it’s mostly just locals. Weekends from 1-3 PM are the busiest times.
One disappointing thing: the market is undergoing some renovations. Part of the building is closed off. I visited in September 2024 and had to navigate around construction barriers. It wasn’t terrible, but it’s not the seamless experience it was before.
Where to Eat / Practical Tips
At Gwangjang
Go for the raw fish. The stall I always go to is run by this older woman in the back-left corner of the food section. She’s consistently good, and she charges 7,000 KRW for a generous plate. It’s slightly more than others, but it’s worth it.
The kimbap here is decent — 3,500-4,000 KRW. Not special, but fresh. Skip the instant ramyeon stalls unless you’re really desperate. You can get that anywhere.
At Tongin
Do the dosirak box thing. I’m not joking. Fill it with the seasoned mackerel (3,000 KRW), some stir-fried vegetables (2,000 KRW), kimchi (1,500 KRW), and maybe some fish cakes (2,000 KRW). Total meal for 8,500 KRW, and it’s legitimate good food. The woman who sells the seasoned fish is always smiling and throws extra on. Small kindness, big difference.
Practical tips for both: bring cash. Many stalls don’t take cards, especially at Tongin. ATMs exist at both markets but are sometimes awkward to find. Wear comfortable shoes — you’ll be standing and walking. Don’t go on Saturday unless you enjoy crowds. Bring a bag if you plan to buy groceries; plastic bags cost money now.
Honest Take
Gwangjang if you want the “market experience” and don’t mind it being somewhat staged for tourists. You’ll get good photos, decent food, and it’s legitimately historic. Tongin if you want to actually see how Seoul functions, eat authentic market food at real prices, and feel like a local for an hour or two. Skip both if you’re short on time — they’re nice-to-haves, not must-dos. Best time to visit either one is a weekday morning. Go to Tongin first if you’re only doing one; it’s more authentic and less crowded. One thing I wish I’d known before my first visit to Gwangjang: it’s a market, not a museum. You’re not “preserving tradition” by shopping there. It’s just functional, with some nice food. That’s enough. Don’t expect magic.