Opening
Tongyeong and Namhae Island are about 30km apart, and most people treat them as separate destinations. I’ve been to both multiple times, and honestly? They’re worth a 2-day trip if you actually like seafood and don’t mind crowds during peak season. The coastline here is genuinely beautiful — jagged cliffs, pine-covered islands, fishing boats everywhere. But if you’re expecting some undiscovered paradise, you’re too late. Both places are packed with Korean tourists and tour groups, especially weekends.
Getting There
From Seoul
Take the KTX from Seoul Station to Tongyeong. The journey is about 3 hours 40 minutes, costs around 45,600 KRW. There’s also a slow train option (mugunghwa) for about 25,000 KRW that takes 5+ hours — I’ve only met backpackers do this. The KTX drops you at Tongyeong Station, which is actually on the outskirts. From the station, you need a local bus or taxi to get downtown. A taxi will run you 12,000–15,000 KRW depending on traffic.
Getting to Namhae from Tongyeong
This is where most guides get it wrong. They make it sound like you need to hop ferries and island-jump like you’re in the Philippines. You don’t. Take a direct bus from Tongyeong intercity bus terminal to Namhae. It’s 45 minutes, costs 4,800 KRW, and runs every 20 minutes or so. The bus crosses a large bridge — no ferry required. I wasted two hours my first visit looking for ferry terminals because an old blog post made it sound complicated.
Getting Around
Both towns are small enough to walk the main areas, but you’ll need local buses or a rental car to see anything interesting. Buses cost 1,250 KRW per ride. A rental car for 2 days from a local agency (not the international chains) costs around 40,000–50,000 KRW. I usually rent a car because the coastline roads are worth driving slowly.
What to Do / See
Tongyeong
The main draw is Dongpirang Wall Art Village. Walk through narrow alleys covered in murals and mosaics. It’s charming for maybe an hour, then you’ve seen it all. Most people arrive mid-morning when tour groups clog the narrow streets. Go early, before 8:30 AM, and you’ll have it almost to yourself. Entry is free.
Yi Sun-sin Park is worth 30 minutes. It’s a waterfront park with statues and views of the harbor. The statue of Admiral Yi Sun-sin is impressive if you care about Korean history — I find it a bit heavy-handed, but locals respect it. Free entry. The best time to visit is late afternoon when the light is good and tour buses have left.
Tongyeong Cable Car runs from the top of a hill down to the waterfront. It costs 7,000 KRW one-way, 12,000 KRW round-trip. The views of the islands are good, but honestly, you’re paying for 10 minutes of experience. It’s crowded on weekends. I’d skip it unless you have limited mobility.
The real gem is renting a bike and riding along Tongyeong Coast Road. It’s about 10km of mostly flat cycling with water views the entire way. Cost for bike rental is around 10,000 KRW for the day. I did this on a Tuesday morning in October, and it was nearly empty. You pass fishing villages, small restaurants, and actual Korean life — not tour-group Disneyland.
Namhae Island
Sangju Haesang Gold Slope is the big Instagram spot. Basically, it’s a beach where sunlight hits golden-colored rock formations at a certain time of day. It’s pretty for photos, but the entrance fee is 3,000 KRW and there’s a decent hike (about 20 minutes). Go at sunset. I went at midday once and couldn’t figure out why people were excited — the light makes all the difference.
Namhae Island German Village is a niche attraction. It’s a recreated 1960s German village because Korean contract workers were sent to Germany back then. It’s… kind of weird and overly nostalgic. Museum entry is 8,000 KRW. The village itself is free to walk through. I spent 45 minutes there and felt like I was in a theme park. Skip it unless you’re really into quirky Korean tourist attractions.
Daraengi Alley (or Daraengi Food Alley) is the main reason to visit Namhae. It’s a covered market street lined with seafood restaurants packed together. Prices are reasonable — a whole grilled fish runs 12,000–18,000 KRW, seafood soup 8,000–10,000 KRW. Go for late lunch (around 2 PM) when it’s less crowded than dinner. The vendors speak limited English, but pointing works fine.
Yeongheungdo Island is a short ferry ride from Namhae (about 15 minutes, 2,500 KRW). It’s a quiet island with a small village and some walking trails. I took the ferry on a whim and found it refreshingly empty compared to the main attractions. If you have a spare afternoon, it’s worth 2 hours of time.
Where to Eat / Practical Tips
Tongyeong is known for nakji (octopus). Nakji bokkeum (stir-fried octopus) is the specialty. A decent plate costs 12,000–15,000 KRW. I ate at a small restaurant called Busan Nakji near Yi Sun-sin Park — not fancy, but the octopus was tender and the owner was kind. No English menu, but he just showed me pictures on his phone of what other customers were ordering.
For coffee, there’s a decent café scene. Tongyeong Coffee Street (near the waterfront) has maybe 20 small cafés crammed together. Most are run by people who moved here to escape Seoul. A cappuccino costs 4,500–5,500 KRW. The views over the harbor make it pleasant to sit for a while.
Practical tip that locals mention: bring cash. Many small restaurants and shops, especially away from the main areas, don’t take cards. ATMs are everywhere in town centers, but not on smaller islands.
Another thing: seafood prices fluctuate by season. Summer (July-August) is peak price and peak crowd. October-November is when seafood is fresh and cheaper, and weather is perfect. Avoid winter unless you like gray skies and empty beaches.
Honest Take
Go to Tongyeong if you want decent coastal scenery, fresh seafood, and a relaxed pace for a couple days. Namhae is worth visiting too, but only if you rent a car or have someone to split taxi costs — attractions are spread out. Skip both if you’re looking for solitude or undiscovered travel. You’ll find Korean tourists, organized tours, and Instagram spots. The real appeal is eating fresh fish, cycling quiet coastal roads, and sitting by water without the intensity of Seoul. Best time is October through November when the weather is clear and prices drop. One thing I wish I knew earlier: book restaurants in advance if you’re going on a weekend, especially seafood places in Daraengi Alley. Walk-ins often wait 45+ minutes. Weekdays, you’ll get a table immediately.