Opening
Look, I’ve been to Changdeokgung Palace at least a dozen times in the past five years, and I still think it’s worth a visit. But I’m going to be straight with you: it’s not the mind-blowing experience the tourism boards make it sound like. If you go at the right time and know what you’re actually looking at, it’s genuinely special. If you show up on a Saturday afternoon expecting solitude, you’ll be disappointed.
Getting There
The easiest route is Line 3 (the orange line). Get off at Anguk Station, Exit 3. Walk straight for about 10 minutes and you’ll hit the main entrance. It’s roughly 2.5 kilometers from the station. If you’re coming from Myeongdong or Gangnam, give yourself 30-45 minutes total travel time depending on transfers.
Alternatively, you can take bus 1020, 7212, or 7011 to the Changdeokgung Palace stop, but honestly, the subway is cleaner and more predictable. The entry fee is 10,000 KRW for adults (as of 2024). If you’re planning to visit multiple palaces, grab a combined pass for around 24,000 KRW that covers Changdeokgung, Deoksugung, and Gyeongbokgung — though I’d honestly just stick with this one if you’re short on time.
Here’s what most guides get wrong: they say the Suwon bus leaves from Changdeokgung, but it doesn’t. People show up expecting to catch a bus and end up confused. There’s no direct transport from here to anywhere else major. Also, taxis here get confused sometimes about the entrances — there’s the main gate and then a side entrance near the Secret Garden. Tell them you want the Changdeokgung main entrance (창덕궁 정문), not just “Changdeokgung.”
What to Do / See
The palace itself is open from 9 a.m. to 6 p.m. (closes at 5 p.m. November through March). It’s closed Mondays. The actual grounds are reasonable to walk through — maybe 90 minutes if you’re moving slowly and reading plaques.
Start at the Injeongjeon Hall. It’s the main throne room and honestly kind of underwhelming if you’re expecting elaborate decorations. It’s functional, wooden, and the photos look better than the real thing. But the courtyard in front of it is genuinely striking, especially in spring or autumn. I usually spend 15-20 minutes here.
The real draw is the Secret Garden — the Biwon. Here’s the critical detail: you can only enter the Secret Garden on a guided tour. This is non-negotiable. Tours run every 30-60 minutes depending on season and demand. The tours are in Korean and English, and they’re about 90 minutes long. Buy your ticket when you first arrive if you want an afternoon slot; they do fill up, particularly on weekends. The Secret Garden entry is included in your 10,000 KRW admission, but the guided tour slots do sometimes sell out.
The Secret Garden itself is genuinely worth the guided tour restriction. It’s a working landscape garden with a small pond, stepping stones, traditional pavilions tucked into the hillside. The reason it feels different from the main palace grounds is because it actually is — it was designed as a retreat for the royal family, not a ceremonial space. When I visited in May, the azaleas were blooming and it actually lived up to the hype. September and October are probably the sweet spot for crowds and weather.
The Nakseonjae Hall is nice but I’d honestly skip it unless you have extra time. It’s a 19th-century residence that’s been tastefully reconstructed, but it feels more like a museum display than an actual space. Entry is an additional 5,000 KRW.
Crowd-wise: weekday mornings before 11 a.m. are genuinely quiet. I’ve been here at 9:30 a.m. on a Tuesday and practically had the place to myself. Weekends are chaos — particularly between 1 p.m. and 4 p.m. School groups show up mid-morning. If you can only go on a weekend, get there right when it opens or go after 5 p.m. (which gives you about 30-45 minutes of light in summer).
Where to Eat / Practical Tips
There’s a small café inside the palace grounds near the entrance that serves coffee and basic snacks. It’s fine but overpriced — 7,000 KRW for a coffee. I usually just grab something before or after.
Better option: right outside the main gate, there’s a small restaurant called Tosokchon Samgyetang (토속촌 삼계탕) that’s been there forever. It’s famous locally for ginseng chicken soup — 18,000 KRW for a full bowl, and it’s actually good, not just tourist-trap good. They have a lunch set for 16,000 KRW that includes soup, rice, and side dishes. Lunch is usually 11:30 a.m. to 2 p.m.
Practical thing I learned the hard way: wear comfortable shoes. The Secret Garden tour involves significant walking on uneven terrain and stones. I wore sneakers for years before I learned this lesson, but trust me, your feet will thank you. Also bring water — there’s no water fountain inside the palace grounds, only vending machines.
Photography note: most of the palace is photogenic, but the light is actually best in late afternoon. If you’re serious about photos, go in late May or early September when the light is golden and the gardens are still lush. Avoid midday harsh light.
Honest Take
Go if you’re interested in actual history or traditional Korean architecture and garden design. Don’t go if you just want to check off a UNESCO box — the main palace grounds feel kind of empty compared to Gyeongbokgung, and you’ll see other tourists disappointed for that reason. The Secret Garden is the real reason to come; it genuinely feels separate from the rest of Seoul and justifies the trip. Best time is late spring (May) or early fall (September-early October) when the weather is perfect and the gardens are at their best. Go on a weekday if you can. The one thing I wish I’d known going in is that you can’t just wander the Secret Garden whenever you want — knowing about the tour schedule in advance would’ve saved me confusion on my first visit. It’s worth an afternoon, particularly if you’re in Jongno-gu anyway, but don’t plan your whole Seoul trip around it.